Age is Just a Number While Walking 120 kms on Camino De Santiago

Nearly a year ago, in October 2023, 71-year-old Sudha Mahalingam and her friends Monu and Krishna Bhatia, aged 82 and 77 respectively, walked the Camino de Santiago. Together, they walked 120 kilometres across 8 days, allowing them to experience the Camino on a moderate trail without compromising on the experience and community spirit of the walk.

The Camino de Santiago is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes leading to the tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It is Europe's oldest and most well-known pilgrimage route, traversed since the 9th century. Today, people undertake the journey for a variety of reasons. Some see it as an adventure, others view it as a must-do item on their bucket list, and many find it to be a deeply spiritual experience.

The original Camino path can extend for up to 800 kilometres, starting from the South of France, crossing the Pyrenees, and going through urban centres like Madrid, Granada, Lisbon, or even Algarve. The Camino maintains a system of different routes as in ancient days travellers set off from various parts of Europe to arrive at Santiago de Compostela. It is believed that there is a pathway suited to every interest and capability. That’s how the three friends from Bangalore city decided to embark on the moderate trail, to suit their physical capabilities. This also meant making careful choices, like not carrying a heavy backpack as they walked.

The adventurous trio just before another day on the trail (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam) 
The adventurous trio just before another day on the trail (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam) 

Finding Their Path

Mahalingam and the Bhatia couple walked the shortest Camino route, which is 120 km from Sarria in Lugo, Spain -- the minimum distance required to be recognized as the Camino. "Along the way, several places provide stamps for the Camino passport, which are authenticated and eventually culminate in the issuance of a certificate in Santiago. I possess a certificate in Latin with my name on it," Mahalingam says with pride. .

Walking westward from Sarria to Santiago in eight days is one of the most popular sections of the Camino. This is the last 100km of the Camino, and upon completion, a walker/pilgrim is able to obtain their Compostela Certificate. The trail is open year-round, though Mahalingam and the Bhatias did it in October. The best months to visit are April to June, and September to October.

As the adventurous trio tell us, the hike had signposts throughout the path; it was relatively easy and manageable even for individuals with reasonable fitness levels, and offered captivating views of the pastoral Spanish countryside. The path they walked was largely a flat one, through forest trails and farming villages with excellent tree cover that almost felt like walking through a green tunnel. Cows and horses grazed on the farmlands they passed, creating a scenery out of a picture postcard. "Galicia's fertile farms were brimming with an abundance of fruits waiting to be discovered and tasted. During the journey, we walked through paths laden with apples, chestnuts in various states, squashed and dried grapes, fallen figs, occasional oranges and persimmons, and trails shaded by lush vegetation," Mahalingam, an intrepid traveller, adds. Apart from picking the occasional juicy fruit enticing them on their path, the trio enjoyed local delicacies, which included arroz (rice dishes), and excellent varieties of bread and wine.

The Camino Passport with the stamps collected along the trail (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam)
The Camino Passport with the stamps collected along the trail (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam)

Octopus is a much-loved local delicacy and the places that serve it are called Pulperia. A breaded and fried octopus dish much like the Indian onion bhaji was available everywhere.

All three think the trail is doable for fit older adults, including someone walking alone. "There are always crowds going and people are ready to help. If you sit down somewhere, somebody invariably will come and ask if you need any help. There is a spirit of camaraderie and mutual support."

What Older Walkers Need To Remember

At 82, not everyone may add a 120 kilometres walking trail with 18-19 km of walking per day to their itinerary like Monu Bhatia did. He says he might have been one of the oldest people on that trail. While the trail may be considered moderate, he does advise maintaining basic fitness: "Anyone planning to walk the trail should walk regularly, at least five to six kilometres per day, and possibly even 10 km. Additionally, incorporating strengthening exercises into your fitness routine is essential because it's not just about walking; it's also about building and maintaining muscle strength. If I were to do something like this again, I'd focus not only on walking but also on strength training and similar activities,” explains the octogenarian.

"It's important to keep using your limbs regularly, especially as you get older. If you don't use them for some time, there's a high chance of losing their functionality. Therefore, it's crucial to exercise constantly," says Mahalingam, adding, "Despite being 71 years old, I consider myself fortunate to have good health, and I feel as though I'm only 51. I constantly set targets for myself and strive to challenge myself. Setting and working towards goals is crucial, regardless of age. You may not always achieve these goals, but the effort is important, especially as you reach your 70s and beyond. I believe it's vital to keep challenging yourself, just like the Bhatias have done admirably. It's something I have also been doing unconsciously, always taking on new projects and staying active."

Krishna Bhatia completed the trail successfully despite a tendon issue. She too thinks staying active helped. "Physical activity is crucial, such as daily walks or alternate-day routines, along with incorporating a bit of yoga. Additionally, engaging in breathing exercises to improve stamina and maintaining a positive mindset towards any endeavour is highly recommended." Like her husband she recommends strength training exercises, which was her learning from this experience.

While you can find out more about The Camino on their official website and plan the route that works for you, here are some suggestions and useful tips from the Bhatias and Mahalingam about their walk and what to keep in mind:

Night Halts: The trio stayed in AirBnBs at most of the halts. Most of these were well-equipped with amenities such as espresso machines and pods, dishwashers, washing machines, and juicers. "These appliances were put to good use as we collected an assortment of fruits during our journey. We made sure not to waste any coffee pods and consumed copious amounts of juice and beer," Mahalingam says. "Obtaining the keys to our AirBnB proved to be an entertaining task in many places. It often felt like we were in a folk tale, having to cross seven seas, climb seven mountains, traverse seven valleys, and retrieve the keys from the stomach of a goldfish in a pond in a distant meadow just to access our cottage! Nonetheless, we managed to retrieve the keys every time."

Meals: Food wasn't a problem for vegetarians in the group as long as they cooked their meals, as restaurants leaned towards non-vegetarian food. Rice, vegetables, fruits and good quality bread can be bought from the grocery store in the villages during each night halt. Almost every village had at least one café with an orange juice machine, to keep up with energy-boosting health drinks.

Footwear: Wear good shoes and remember to break your shoes in at least one month before you start your journey, so that you can walk effortlessly while on the trail.

Clothing: Check the weather before you pack. Carry minimal clothing, including raingear. Every place you stay has washers and dryers.

Luggage: While many pilgrims carry their luggage, you can opt to have yours transported by a porter for a fee of four euros per bag to the next destination. This is what the trio did. They also kept the backpacks they carried while walking the trails as light as possible. Mahalingam carried five kilos in her backpack, which included two cameras, batteries, food and water.

Rest: Listen to your body and take required breaks. Adjust your walking pace and distance to match your energy level and ability.

Nature's Call: There are very few toilets on this trail (except at cafe stops) which is one of the negatives, say our travellers. "Older people have short holding times sometimes and for them, it may become a bit of a problem," says Mahalingam. Her suggestion: Either they can wear a diaper and walk, or use the wilderness, if you cannot hold out for three to four hours.

Necessities: Like on any holiday, carry your medication. Since this is a walking route you may want to carry pain balm. Apart from these, the usuals for emergencies like fever, headaches and indigestion should be carried and preferably kept in the daily backpack.

Support: It is helpful if you have a hiking stick on the trail as it becomes a third leg and gives you support.

One of the halts during the day where the trio rested for a few hours (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam)
One of the halts during the day where the trio rested for a few hours (Photo Credit: Sudha Mahalingam)

Most exhilarating moment: Reaching St. James Church at the end of the pilgrimage on the ninth day was the highlight for Mahalingam and Bhatias. “There is a huge crowd there and many have walked the full 800 kilometres of the trail,” they say. Many had also done the shorter walk like Mahalingam and the Bhatias did. They tell us walking the trail was special because of the spirit of the Camino prevailing all around, making it as much about the journey as about the destination.

About the author

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Reshmi Chakraborty

Reshmi is the former co-founder and editor of Silver Talkies. She loves books, travel and photography.

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Comments

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Priyanka

22 Oct, 2024

Well with article Reshmi.

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Vandana

24 Sep, 2024

Well written article Reshmi. Your vivid descriptions had an immersive tone to it. Greatly admire the trio’s adventurous spirit.

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Lakshmi

24 Sep, 2024

I enjoy d reading your article Reshmi. Friends of mine have walked the Camino but have not described it like this. You made it come alive for me.

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Farzana

18 Sep, 2024

very informative...

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