How Fish Helped This Senior Entrepreneur Find Herself

Rajashree Samel turned entrepreneur in her late 60s. Then she discovered the many layers that had been hiding within.

The term ‘second innings’ is a perfect fit for Rajashree Samuel, 70, an imaginative cook and senior entrepreneur. Fondly called Rajashree Kaku (aunt in Marathi) by everyone, is the heart and head of The Fish Thali, a Pune restaurant specializing in fish dishes from the Konkan and Western Indian regions.

And while we could go on about the delicious Prawn Sautalele or Khichdi that she serves up, what is even more exciting is the venture that has given her a second lease of life. It is a story of intergenerational support and how it’s never too late to find yourself.

Rajashree had been a homemaker all along, known for her excellent cooking and the special touch she brought to all her recipes. Her life revolved around her home. So when her husband passed away in 2017 after battling cancer for four years, there was a sudden vacuum.

Rajashree was her husband’s primary caregiver. As often happens with long-term caregiving, it was a difficult time for her with the loss and emptiness that came. She did not have any hobbies or a social circle. “I used to be so busy at home earlier and suddenly I felt there was nothing to do. I wanted to do something but did not know what and how to.”

That’s when her son Hrishikesh and daughter-in-law Shibani, who ran a catering business, stepped in. They suggested starting a small restaurant serving fish dishes that had been Rajashree’s forte for years. “I had my fears and doubts,” Rajashree says, "but they stood like a rock behind me, encouraging me to give it a start and not worry even if it failed." So in 2020, three months before COVID-19 struck, they started a restaurant and managed to keep it standing in the pandemic through sheer hard work.

Despite her hesitation, there was one thing clear in Rajashree’s mind. If she ever started anything on her own, it had to be food-related. It was the skill she had absolute confidence in. 

Shibani, who helps with all front-end matters at The Fish Thali, including sourcing and marketing, is all praise for Rajashree's sense of proportion. “She had an innate sense of proportion even while cooking at home. If she shared a recipe with you, she would give you exact measurements and if you followed them, it would turn out perfect. So we knew she would be able to manage a commercial kitchen.”

Rajashree says much of her food has been influenced by ingredients from the various places she has lived in, her 13 years in Chiplun (Konkan region) being one of them. “From there, I learnt to use ‘tirphal’ (a spice similar to Sichuan pepper) in my preparations, especially in fishes like mackerel.” She has always liked going beyond traditional spice combinations of coriander and cumin. “When I lived in Bharuch, Gujarat, I realised they used a lot of saunf (fennel seeds) in their food which gave it a unique flavour. So I incorporated it in my cooking.”  

“The right balance is crucial to ensure that no single flavour overpowers the others. When preparing fish, the spices should enhance the fish's natural flavour rather than mask it!”

The encouragement may have come from Shibani and Hrishikesh but once Rajashree came on board, she set her own rules.

“I won’t compromise on nutrition and freshness,” she declared, a thought they were consistent with. The fish had to be freshly sourced and the masalas had to be made on the premises. “I did not want to use a deep freezer and stock fish in advance,” Rajashree says. She believes it changes the flavour and texture. So the restaurant sends a person four times a week to source fish. Initially, she was even against packing food for delivery, though keeping it afloat through the pandemic changed that. 

Today, the restaurant kitchen has two successful branches. "We never imagined this would happen; we started with the initial idea of keeping mom occupied," Shibani says. "Mom," is indeed the heart and soul of the restaurant, putting in extraordinary effort to give it her special touch. If you visit The Fish Thali, you can see her in action in the kitchen, cooking and instructing while standing on her feet, her chef cap in place.

Rajashree arrives at the restaurant around 11 AM and stays until about 3:30 PM. She returns at 6:30 PM and works until approximately 11:00 PM. She reflects, "I used to be someone for whom staying out of the house past 7 PM was unthinkable. Now, I finish work at 11, and don’t think twice about it."

Rajashree and Shibani are often mistaken for mother and daughter given their easy camaraderie. They laugh out loud and say dividing the work around the restaurant is what has worked out for both of them. "She grew up cooking and caregiving. Her life revolved around home, husband, in-laws and son. She was in their shadow, like so many women of her generation. So in many ways, this is truly her second innings,” Shibani points out.

Being part of a restaurant centred around her skill and innovation has transformed Rajashree. Her grandchildren know her as a 'Working Ajji' and though they miss her, they are mindful of her work hours. “I have found myself through this work," Rajashree says. "I don’t have words to describe this feeling.”

Her innate skills as the person who kept the family together spill over in the restaurant too. Shibani laughs that Rajashree is the one the staff confides in when they have domestic problems. “She’s also a terror in the kitchen and has exacting standards for everything including cleanliness.”

Shibani and Hrishikesh may have given her the wings to fly but Rajashree always had the initiative within. While living in Chiplun, she ran a women’s self-help group, as part of a social organization. “I taught them to make bags, envelopes and other crafts. Some of them even started earning on their own after learning from me.”

“She is highly ambitious,” confirms Shibani. “She is affirmative and always looks forward to what more we can achieve, how we can innovate and be more successful. She has encouraged me in my career as well."

Rajashree is now discovering new layers to herself as she cooks things up. "I used to be very shy but now when I have time, I step out of the kitchen and love speaking to the customers. I'm very sure of handling ingredients and managing recipes. There is a newfound confidence."

She doesn’t pause to think about her age when she works.

“The body will age but you can’t let the mind age with it.”